9.2 -
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2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
Spare parts catalogue
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be found in the exploded view diagram.
Separation of the crankcase halves
Remove the alternator-side crankcase cover and the alternator assembly
Use two screwdrivers to remove the circlip (29) from the timing belt driveshaft shaft (30) on the clutch-side crankcase half.
Note
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the circlip.
 
Unscrew the crankcase half screws on the chain side.
Unscrew the two screws (12) on the clutch side near the vertical cylinder.
Re-use the alternator cover or a service cover with puller 88713.1749 fitted. Secure cover to crankcase half with some of the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Note
Take care not to lose the shims on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Remove gearbox shafts and gearbox selector drum from the crankcase halves Sect. 9 - 7.2, Removal of the gearbox assembly.
Drive out the crankshaft (L) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the shims.
Remove the timing belt driveshaft (30).
Remove the screws (34), remove the pipes (33) and collect the O-rings (32).
Overhaul of the crankcase halves
Carefully examine the engine crankcase halves.
Check that the surfaces of the crankcase halves are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Check that the bearings (1) and (18), and the bushings (2) and (17) are in optimum conditions. Note that the main bearings must always be changed in pairs (refer to the procedure below in “Main bearings”).
Note
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to renew all the crankcase half bearings.
After having renewed the gearbox shaft bearings (28) and (9), secure them in the crankcase half with the spacers (21) and the retaining plate (10).
At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the sealing ring (8) on the outside of bearing (9).
Renew the bearings (7) and (23) on the ends of the gearbox shafts and timing belt driveshaft bearings (4) and (15).
Take care not to lose the shim (6) interposed between the bearing (7) on the end of the gearbox primary shaft and the chain side crankcase half.
The sealing ring (14) on the external side of the roller bearing (15) must be renewed at each engine overhaul.
Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging. Check the condition of locating bushes (22). If apparently distorted or loose in their seats, change them using proper tools. When the locating bushes (22) are hard to remove from casing, use a left-hand tap to force bushes out.
Important
The bushes (22) must always be renewed when they have been removed using the above procedure.
Remove the bearing (23), the circlip (5) and the roller bearing (4).
Main bearings
The main bearings have are of the angular contact type with offset inner races so that the balls transmit loads from one groove to the other along straight lines at an angle to the axis of the bearing. The angle-contact ball bearings are designed for bearing combined loading (radial-axial loads).
Bearings of this type can bear thrust loads in one direction only. In fact, under the action of a radial load inside the bearing, an axial force is created that must be counterbalanced by an axial force acting in the opposite direction; that is why these bearings are generally fitted back to back in pairs.
Note
The main bearings supplied can be bearings with bushing (A) or flanged bearings (B) with the bushing integrated in the external ring of the bearing.
 
To renew the bearings proceed as follows:
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Bearings with bushing
Important
On worn engines, the bearing holder may no longer be a tight fit in the crankcase half.
 
After having removed the bushing, check that the interference fit between the crankcase and the bushing, with bearing fitted, is no less than 0.03 mm, otherwise, replace the crankcase halves.
Note
Fit the bearings (1) and (18) orienting them so that the side with the “letter” (C) is facing the bushings (2) and (17).
Flanged bearings
Important
On badly worn engines, bearing outer rings may have developed clearance in the crankcase halves - normally, bearing outer rings are interference-fit in the casing.
 
Check that the interference fit between the crankcase and the bearings (1) and (18) installed, is not less than 0.03 mm, otherwise, replace the crankcase halves.
Important
After installing new main bearings, shim the crankshaft as described in the paragraph “Shimming the shafts” and “Reassembly of the crankcase halves “ of this section.
Reassembly of the crankcase halves
The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and free from burrs.
Overhauling the alternator-side crankcase half
The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
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The roller bearing (15) with retaining circlip (16) installed in correspondence with the end of the timing belt driveshaft.
Insert the circlip (5) in the crankcase half installing it in its seat on the bearing (4).
 
Refitting the alternator-side crankcase half
The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
the double race ball bearing (9) supporting the selector fork shaft. Apply threadlocker to the screws (11). Fit the retaining plate (10) to the gearbox secondary shaft bearing (9) screwing the screws fully into the chain-side crankcase half (11).
Note
The bearing retaining plate must be positioned so that the countersunk side is facing upwards.
 
Tighten the screws (11) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
The primary shaft bearing (7) with internal spacer (6), oriented so that the closed side of the plastic roller cage (M) faces the crank­case half. apply grease to the bearing rollers. Fit the inner race (A) removed previously from the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race.
The main bearing (1) with the corresponding bushing (2) (if present).
The bearing (4) with the retaining circlip (5) installed in correspondence with the timing belt driveshaft.
Insert the circlip (5) in the crankcase half installing it in its seat on the bearing (4).
Note
Bearings do not have a specific mounting position (except main bearings); however it is good practice to install the bearings so that side bearing the writing is facing upwards.
 
Fit the mesh filter as described in Sect. 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge.
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Important
To avoid damaging the filter, insert it by hand only. Do not use hammers or other metal tools.
 
Above the mesh filter seat there is a plug (19) which closes off the lubrication oilway. If it is to be renewed, apply the prescribed threadlocker to its threads.
Tighten the plug to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 27 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Shimming the shafts
Before assembling the crankcase halves, calculate the shims required to obtain the correct end float of the crankshaft and gear­box shafts.
To determine the correct shim thickness proceed as follows.
Shimming the crankshaft
After having installed the new main bearings (with bushing (A) or flanged bearings (B)) proceed as follows to determine the total “SA” height of the shimming:
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Add 0.30 mm preload for crankshaft axial bearings to bed in correctly into their seats (inner rings seated inside outer ring).
Thus, we obtain:
SA=LA1+LA2+0.30-LA.
To calculate the thickness of each shim note that:
SA=SA1+SA2
where “SA1” and “SA2” represent the shims for the clutch-side crankcase half 1 and the alternator-side crankcase half 2.
Considering the alignment of the shaft, this gives:
SA1=LA1+0.15-LA/2;
and finally, the second shim thickness: SA2=SA-SA1.
In addition to the above procedure, the following is a practical shimming method, providing a guide on how to calculate the crank­shaft shim thicknesses accurately.
Install a shim of minimum thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of the crankshaft to prevent contact between the crankshaft web and the crankcase.
Install the crankshaft and assemble the two crankcase halves.
Fit four M8 screws in the seats indicated in figure and tighten them to a torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max. 21 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Place a dial gauge (C) with magnetic base on a support plate fixed to crankcase.
Bring the stylus into contact with the end of the crankshaft and set the dial gauge to zero in this position.
Place a lever (D) between crankcase and crank web of the crankshaft pushing towards dial gauge.
Note on the dial gauge the total clearance and add a preload of (0.30 mm) plus the thickness of the shims used (1.90x2=3.8 mm).
Divide the resulting value by two to obtain the thickness of the shim packs to be installed at either end of the crankshaft.
Note
After assembling the crankcase halves, the crankshaft should turn with some interference in the new bearings.
Shimming the gearbox shafts
The following thickness spacers are supplied as spare parts.
 
Shimming the gearbox selector drum
The following thickness spacers are supplied as spare parts.
 
Reassembly of the crankcase halves
If removed, apply threadlocker on the screw (36), insert it with the washer (37) on the crankcase half and tighten it to the torque of 8 Nm (Min. 7 Nm - Max. 9 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
If removed, apply threadlocker on the dowel thread (35), tighten it to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
If removed, apply threadlocker on the plug (19), and tighten it to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 21 Nm - Max. 27 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Install the O-ring (32) on its seat (A) in the crankcase half. Fit the pipe (33) in the crankcase half, inserting the end (B) fully in the O-ring. Align the hole (L) of the pipe with the threaded hole (M) in the crankcase half. Apply threadlocker to the screw (34) and start it in the threaded hole (M). Tighten the screw to a torque of 8 Nm (Min. 7 Nm - Max. 9 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque set­tings).
Install the timing belt driveshaft (30) in the roller bearing (4) in the clutch-side crankcase half.
To avoid damaging the oil seal (14) on the timing belt driveshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the special protective cap 88700.5749. Dampen oil seal (14) with alcohol and fit it on the timing layshaft. Push seal until it contacts the roller bearing (4).
Fit the circlip (29) in the groove on the shaft and remove the protective cap.
Note
When refitting used components, before installing the gearbox assembly in the crankcase half, make sure that the inner races (C) of the gearbox shaft bearings are fitted into the correct bearings and have not been left on the shafts.
 
Match gearbox shafts, fit the shims and fit them to the clutch-side crankcase half.
Note
A table and a list of the gearbox components appear in Sect. 9 - 7.2, Reassembly of the gearbox shafts.
 
Insert the forks of 1st- 4th and 2nd- 3rd speed (D) in the corresponding sliding slots of the secondary shaft driven gears and insert the pin (G) in the forks: the two forks must be fitted with the number that indicates the gear facing upwards.
Note
The two selector forks are identical.
Insert the fork of 5th- 6th speed (E) in the primary shaft driven gear and the pin (G) in the fork (E): the fork must be fitted with the number indicating the gear facing the crankcase half.
Position the pin (G) of the forks (D) in the crankcase half. Holding the gear lever claw, position the gear drum (F) in the crankcase half.
Position the pin (G) of the fork (D) in the crankcase half.
Install the crankcase with calculated shims in the crankcase half bearing: the shims (R) of the shaft must be placed with the cham­fering facing the shaft. Position the connecting rods (H) matching the corresponding seats of the cylinder.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (H) are correctly positioned in the cylinders. Incorrect positioning of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase half.
Check that the two locating bushes (22) are correctly fitted.
Grease the O-ring (31) to hold it in position and install it.
Apply a uniform and continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves, going around all the holes as shown in the figure.
Bring the crankcase halves (3) and (13) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if necessary.
Apply the recommended grease to the screws and insert them in the crankcase halves (note that the screws are different lengths). Start with the larger diameter screws (M8), and follow the order indicated.
 
M8x90 mm screws
M8x75 mm screws
M6x35 mm screws
M6x75 mm screws
Tighten all screws to the torque indicated below (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
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Check that the crankshaft can be turned with a certain amount of interference with the main bearings (the crankshaft should have a pre-load of 0.20 to 0.30 mm); check also that all the parts you have fitted are free to rotate or move correctly.
Install the cover to reach the mesh filter (Sect. 4- 3, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Install the cartridge filter (Sect. 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Fit the sealing ring (8) on the gear secondary shaft with side (L) to the engine side.
Install the bushing of the tool with code 88713.2060 on the secondary shaft. Lubricate the new ring (8) and seat it.
Using the tool's drift, drive the sealing ring fully home so it seats against the crankcase half bearing.
 
 
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