3 -
Reading of the error memory with DDS on the engine control units, vehicle and ABS
Check if there are errors by following the procedure described in the paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. 6 - 11).
Checking the engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level.
Check the level with the motorcycle perfectly vertical and with the engine warm (but not running).
The oil must be between the MIN and MAX. marks. If the level is low, top it up.
Remove the filler cap (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Refit the filler plug (2).
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Note
This operation has to be carried out with hot engine (but turned off) because the oil in these conditions is more fluid and its evac­uation is faster and complete.
 
Remove the drain plug (3) with seal (A) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (3). Clean the threads of the drain plug and apply THREE BOND TB1215. Refit the drain plug complete with gasket (A) to the sump.
Tighten the exhaust plug (3) to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906.
Important
Dispose of the used cartridge, do not attempt to reutilise it.
 
Fit a new cartridge (4), using the tool 88713.2906 making sure to lubricate the gasket with engine oil.
 
Note
As an alternative, it is advisable to refill the filter cartridge with engine oil (4) before fitting it: this enables the recommended oil level to be maintained without topping up.
Screw the cartridge fully home and tighten it to a torque of 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Every two oil changes, clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Undo the four screws (5) of the external cap (6) and remove it.
Remove the filtering element (7) and check the O-rings (8) and (9), replace them if necessary.
Clean the filter with petrol and compressed air. Take care not to damage the gauze.
Place the O-ring (9) on the crankcase and the (8) one on the mesh filter (7).
Refit the mesh filter (7).
Apply a bead of fluid gasket to the cap (6) as shown in the figure.
Remove the filler plug (2) and carry out refilling with the specified oil type (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) up to reaching the notch that identifies the MAX level in the sight glass (1).
Refit the filler cap (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.
Check that there are no oil leaks and that the engine oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel switches off some sec­onds after starting up the engine. If not, switch off the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX. level.
Tighten the external cap (6) retaining screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque set­tings).
 
Checking valve clearances
To check the valves clearance, it is necessary to have access to the cylinder head covers and then remove the components listed below.
 
Remove the airbox without disconnecting the throttle cables and support it ade­quately
Unscrew the two fixing screws (1) of the cover (2) according to the crankshaft.
Fit the tool handgrip 88713.0123 in the holes of the generator cover to be able to turn the crankshaft so that the valve on which the control is carried out is in rest position.
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between rocker arm (A) and the lowest side of the cam (B) to measure the clearance.
The clearances must be within the specified limits:
 
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between closing rocker arm (C) and the highest side of the cam (D) to measure the clearance.
 
If detected values exceed the specified limits, replace opening and/or closing shims, as described in paragraph “Removing the valves” (Sect. 9 -  4.5), with an adequate height to obtain the specified clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring from 1.8 to 3.45 mm and closing rocker arm shims measuring from 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts. the size is punched on the shim.
 
Remove the handgrip tool 88713.0123 from the hole of the generator cover.
Make sure that the O-ring (3) is fitted on the cover (2).
Refit the external cap (2) by tightening the two retaining screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
 
Renew the timing belts
To replace the timing system belts follow the procedures described in paragraph “Removal of the movable tensioner/timing belt” and “Refitting the timing belts” (Sect. 9 - 4.2).
 
Spark plugs replacement
Check the colour of the ceramic insulation around the central electrode:
an even, light brown colour indicates the engine is in good condition and running at the right temperature.
Inspect the centre electrode for wear and check spark plug gap, which should be: 0.8±0.1 mm.
Important
Check the gap between the central and side electrodes. Replace the spark plug if taken value is different from the specified one or the spark plug shows clear signs of carbon settling.
Important
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate thermal rating or incorrect thread length.
The spark plug must be securely installed.
If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the engine.
 
Spark plug type
Make: NGK
Type: MAR9A-J / MAR9C-J
 
 
In order to reach the vertical cylinder head spark plugs remove the tank by loosening the screws (1) and (2) and by installing a pad under it.
Disconnect the fuel sensor connector (3), the fuel pump connector (4) and the snap fittings (5) of the flange.
In order to access the horizontal spark plugs big end unscrew the water radiator fixing screws (6) slightly moving it upwards.
Remove the HT leads (7), unscrewing the nuts (8) of both spark plugs.
Using the appropriate tool 88713.2877 to replace the spark plugs.
Place the coil-spark plugs wires (7) in the relevant seats and tighten the nuts (8) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Fix the water radiator to the mounting by starting and tightening the screws (6) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Connect the fuel sensor connector (3), the fuel pump connector (4) and the snap fittings (5) of the flange.
Refit the fuel tank by tightening the screws (1) and (2) to the specified torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
 
Changing and cleaning the air filters
The air filter must be replaced at the intervals described in the “Scheduled maintenance chart” (Sect. 4 - 2).
 
Working on the right side of the vehicle, loosen the retaining screws (1) of the intake duct (2).
Remove the intake duct (2).
Pull out the filter cartridge (3) from the seat in the airbox.
The filter cartridge can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or replace if necessary.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on the spark plugs. Do not use the motorcycle without a filter as impurities in the air could get into the engine and cause damage.
 
Reinstall correctly the cartridge into the seat of the airbox, place the intake duct (2) with the rubber (4).
Start and tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently.
 
Check the air filter (4) in the horizontal timing belt cover (5).
Loosen the screws (6) fixing the horizontal belt timing cover (5) and remove it from the horizontal cylinder assembly.
Loosen the screws (7) and remove the filter (4).
Once the check has been carried out refit filter (4), screw without tightening the screws (7) and refit the horizontal belt timing cover (5) on the horizontal cylinder assembly by tightening the screws (6) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) for the plastic covers, and 6 Nm (Min. 5.5 Nm - Max. 6.5 Nm) for the carbon ones (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
 
Checking the coolant level
To the specified intervals in the “Scheduled maintenance chart” (Sect. 4 - 2) check the coolant level contained in the expansion reservoir, on the right side of the vehicle.
The coolant level must be between the MAX. and MIN marks on the tank.
If the level is low, top up with the recommended coolant.
Remove the filler cap (1) and top up with new coolant to the specified level.
Refit the plug (1).
For optimal operating conditions (coolant mixture starting to freeze at ‑20 °C), the recommended fluid antifreeze should be mixed with water in the following percentages:
ANTIFREEZE: 35 to 40% of the volume;
WATER: 65 to 60% of the volume.
Important
Very hard water with a high mineral salt content can damage the engine.
Increase the amount of antifreeze to up to 55% volume in the case of very cold climates.
Important
Solutions with less than 30% of antifreeze will not provide sufficient protection against corrosion.
Changing the coolant
Warning
This operation must only be carried out when the engine is cold. Attempting to change the coolant with the engine hot could lead to burns from hot coolant or scalding steam.
 
Place a container under the engine and place the motorcycle on its side stand.
Remove the expansion reservoir filler cap (1).
Loosen the clamp (2) by undoing the screw (3), disconnect the pipe (4) and allow the coolant to flow in a container.
Loosen the cap (5) of the fluid exhaust hole placed on the pump cover.
Allow the coolant to drain off completely.
Screw the cap (5) with a new gasket in the fluid drain hole.
Tighten the cap (5) to a torque of 19 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refill the circuit by pouring new coolant into the circuit via the remote filler cap.
Connect the pipe (4) by tightening the screws (3) on the clamp (2) to a torque of 1 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Allow several minutes for the coolant to fill all the internal passages.
Start up the engine and allow the coolant to reach 110 °C; run the engine for about 10 minutes.
Stop the engine and allow it to cool down so that all the air is expelled from the cooling circuit.
Warning
Keep your hands, clothing and tools well clear of the radiator fan at all times; this fan starts automatically without warning and could cause serious injury or damage.
Important
Check the cooling circuit for possible leaks.
 
Top up the coolant through the expansion reservoir filler to bring the level up to the MAX. mark.
Tighten the cap (1) of the expansion reservoir.
 
Changing the brake fluid
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Changing the fluid in the front brake circuit
Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the front brake fluid tank (2) by undoing the screws (3).
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Replace the membrane (without the plug) on the tank to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following operations.
Move the brake callipers pistons back: to carry out this operation unscrew the fixing screws (4) of the callipers on the fork plates and push, by removing them from each other, both pads from every calliper; during this operation be careful with the fluid level, that must always be aspirated each time that it flows back in the tank.
Once that all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and that all the fluid in the tank has been aspirated, connect to the bleed valve (5) a transparent tube by immersing the end in a container placed on the floor.
Fill the reservoir (2) with new brake fluid up to the MAX. mark.
Operate the lever to reach the 20-30 mm end of stroke and keep the lever in this position by using a non-elastic clamp.
Loosen the bleed valve of the left calliper (from the rider view) (5) and then take the lever through the whole stroke to allow fluid to escape.
The lever is supported to the grip.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) then release the lever.
Repeat the operation described above until the old fluid flows completely.
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed to the specified torque actuate repeatedly the lever until a pressure is detected in the brake system.
Warning
After eliminating the old fluid from the tank, during the refilling operation always keep the oil level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the circuit.
 
Changing the rear brake circuit fluid
Unscrew the cap (6) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (7).
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (8) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (7).
Fill the reservoir (7) with new brake fluid up to the MAX. mark.
Press the pedal to allow the circuit to go under pressure.
Keep the pedal pressed to the bottom.
Loosen the bleed valve (8) to allow fluid to escape.
The pedal is at the end of the stroke in lower position.
At this point, tighten the bleed valve (8) to the specific torque of 14 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and release the pedal; press the pedal.
Repeat the operation described above until the old fluid flows completely.
Warning
After eliminating the old fluid from the tank, during the refilling operation always keep the oil level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the circuit.
Draining the brake circuit
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
 
Remove the cover (1) with the membrane from the front brake fluid tank (2) by unscrewing the screws (3) or unscrewing the cap (6) of the rear brake fluid tank (7).
Connect one bleeder for brakes to the bleed valve (5) of the left front calliper or to the bleed valve (8) of the rear calliper, usually available in stores.
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
 
Loosen the bleed valve (5) or (8) and suck with the bleeder until there is no more fluid in the system.
In case the bleeder is not available, connect to the bleed valve (5) of the left front calliper or to the bleed valve (8) of the rear calliper, a transparent plastic tube and dip the end into a container placed on the floor containing used brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed valve.
Operate the brake lever (or pedal) until all the fluid has drained out.
Repeat this operation for each brake calliper.
Note (front system)
With this procedure in the front system the front callipers fluid-filled remain; in case the callipers also need to be emptied, it is necessary to carry out a retreat piston operation described in the chapter “Changing the brake fluid” keeping the bleeder (if available) still running and connected to the bleed valve.
Note (rear system)
If there is no bleeder, carry out piston retreat operation described in the chapter “Changing the brake fluid”.
 
Filling the brake system with fluid
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
 
Refill the tanks (2) or (7) with specific oil (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) taken from an intact container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level in the tank must remain topped over the MIN mark all times. The end of the trans­parent plastic pipe must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
 
Operate the lever or the brake pedal and keep it actuated during the refilling.
Connect the bleeder to the bleed valve (5) of the left front calliper or to the bleed valve (8) of the rear brake.
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
 
Aspirate with bleeder and loosen the bleed valve (5) or (8) always checking that the level of the corresponding tank does not fall below the MIN.
Continue this procedure until all the air is expelled from the system.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% and the bleed valve (8) to a torque of 14 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
If you do not have a brake bleeding tool available, connect a transparent plastic tube to the bleed valve (5) or (8) as described in the exhaust procedure.
Press the lever or the pedal half way or until the pressure in the system is detected, open the bleed valve and take the lever or pedal through the whole stroke; Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque and release the lever or the pedal.
Important
Do not release the brake lever (or pedal) until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
 
Repeat the operation until the fluid inside the system is air-bubble free; to this purpose, when refilling is over, carry out bleeding operation by acting on all the valves of the system, one at a time.
In particular, to completely eliminate the air that can remain on the highest point of the front brake master cylinder, act the same way on the bleed valve (9).
Then check that with the bleed valves closed the activation of the pressure with the lever or pedal occurs correctly.
Tighten the bleed valves (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10%, (8) and (9) to a torque of 14 Nm ± 10% (Sect 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and fit the protection cap.
Level the fluid and refit the cover (1) by tightening the screws (3) on the tank (2) or the cap (6) on the tank (7).
 
Changing the clutch fluid
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.
 
Remove the cover (1) with membrane of the clutch fluid reservoir system (2).
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Fill the tank (2) with new oil up to the MAX. mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurised.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the grip.
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container placed on the floor.
Open the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to escape.
Warning
During the filling operation, always keep the oil level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the circuit.
 
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (3) until it changes colour. Retighten the bleed valve (3) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and restore the correct level of oil in the tank.
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
 
Remove the dust cap to expose the bleed valve (3).
Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (3).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
 
Remove the cover (1) with membrane of the clutch fluid reservoir system (2).
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old clutch fluid placed on the floor.
Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.
Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been expelled.
To completely empty the circuit it is advisable to remove the cap of clutch recover.
Remove the clamps (A) and release the clutch tube (4) from the side stand wire (B).
Loosen the screws (5) and slide off the clutch slave cylinder (6) paying attention to the O-ring (7) positioned inside.
Push in the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
Proceed with the refitting of the cap by tightening the fixing screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the bleed valve (3) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Strip the clutch pipe (4) to the side stand wire (B) and insert this last one into the recess (C).
Filling the clutch circuit
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or with the eyes; In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
 
Fill the tank with specified oil (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) taken from an intact container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the clutch lever and keep it pulled to fill the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleed tool to the bleed valve (3).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
 
Pump with the bleeder and open the bleed valve (3) making sure that the level does not fall below the MIN mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid flowing from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (3) as outlined in the draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid flows out of the bleed valve (3).
Pull the lever fully in and then loosen the bleed valve by at least a 1/4 turn.
Wait for a few seconds; then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (3).
Important
Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
 
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Close to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) the bleed valve (3) and install the protection cover.
Top up the fluid level to approximately 3 mm above the MIN mark of the tank.
Refit the cover with membrane (1).
Adjusting the steering head bearings
Excessive handlebar play or shaking forks in the steering head indicate that the play in the steering head bearings requires ad­justment. Proceed as follows:
 
Loosen the clamp screw (1) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
Slacken the clamp screws (2) securing the steering head to both fork legs.
With specific wrench 88713.1058 tighten the adjustment ring nut (3) to a torque of 30 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque set­tings).
Push the steering head against the ring nut (3) and tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 18 Nm ± 5% and the screw (2) to 10 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
 
Adjusting the chain tension
Move the motorcycle slowly until you find the point at which the upper section of the chain is most taut.
Place the motorcycle on the side stand.
Measure chain tension at the centre of the lower section, with the motorcycle on the side stand: lower the chain by pressing down on it only with your finger, release it and measure the distance between the centre of the chain pins and the aluminium section of the swingarm.
It must be: 35 to 37 mm.
To adjust the tension remove the rear splash guard (Sect. 5 - 5, Removing the splash guard).
Slacken off the two clamp screws (1) that secure the rear wheel hub to the swingarm.
Fit the hook spanner code 88713.1038 inserting its tooth in the eccentric hub (2).
Rotate the eccentric hub (2) to obtain the correct chain tension.
Turn anticlockwise to tighten the chain; clockwise to loosen (from chain side).
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission components.
If the screws (1) are removed, lubricate with specified grease underhead and thread, then tighten the screws (1) to the torque of 35 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) proceeding with sequence 1-2-1.
Warning
The correct tightening of the fixing screws of the eccentric hub is essential for the safety of the rider and the passenger (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the rear splash guard (Sect. 5 - 5, Refitting the splash guard).
 
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the customer that the front brake must be used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Checking front brake pad wear
Check through the slot of the calliper that the groove on the pads friction surface (1) is visible.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Turn the pins (2) sealing the pads clockwise.
Remove the safety cotter pin (3).
Withdraw the pad retaining pins (2) from the outside.
Remove the clip (4) from between the two calliper halves.
Force the calliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Remove the worn pads (1).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
 
Fit the new pads and corresponding spring (4) placing it with the arrow faced up.
Fit the pads selaing pins (2) and fix them with safety cotter pins (3).
Turn the pins (2) sealing the pads anticlockwise.
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads are firmly bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the level in the master cylinder tank is not below the MIN mark.
If necessary, top up as follows.
Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is levelled.
Remove the cover (5) with membrane of the front brake fluid tank (6) by unscrewing the screws (7).
Top-up with specified fluid (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) until reaching the max notch.
Checking rear brake pad wear
Check through the slot between the two half callipers that there is at least 1 mm of friction material on the pads.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Change the brake pads as follows.
Remove the circlip (1) from the pad sealing pin (2).
Withdraw the brake pad retaining pin (2) and pull it out.
Remove the clip (3) from between the two calliper halves.
Remove the rear brake calliper by unscrewing the screws (4).
Force the brake pads apart to push the calliper pistons into their housings.
Remove the worn pads (5).
Fit the new pads.
Refit the rear brake calliper by fitting and tightening the screws (4) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the pad sealing spring (3), the centring pin (2) fixing it with the ring (1).
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads are bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the tank is between the MIN and MAX. marks. If this is not the case, act on to the top-up after unscrewing the tank cap (6).
 
Warning
Being the brake callipers a safety component of the vehicle, follow instructions under Sect. 7 - 3, Removal of the front brake system, Sect. 7 - 4, Removing of the rear brake control and pay attention, during the refitting, to the tightening torque of 25 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) of the fixing screws (4) of the rear brake calliper.
Adjusting the throttle cable
The throttle grip in all steering positions must have free play, measured on the periphery of the flange of the grip, of 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
If necessary, adjust using the adjusters (1) and (2) located on the steering tube on the left side of the motorcycle.
Adjuster (1) adjusts the throttle opening control, while adjuster (2) adjusts the throttle closing control.
Slip the rubber gaiters (3) off the adjusters and loosen the lock nuts (4).
Adjust both adjusters by the same amount: turn clockwise to increase free play and anticlockwise to reduce free play. When finished, tighten the lock nuts and refit the protection gaiters (3) to the adjusters.
Periodically check the condition of the outer cables of the throttle opening (1) and closing cables (2). The plastic covering should show no signs of pinching or cracking.
Lubricate the ends of the inner cables with the specified grease periodically to ensure they run freely.
 
Operate the control to check that the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable: if you feel excessive resistance or stiff­ness, renew the cable.
To lubricate the throttle grip, it is necessary to slide off the protection cover (A), loosen the screws (7) and remove the covers (5) and (6) of the throttle grip.
Lubricate the ends of the cable and the pulley (B) with the recommended grease.
When refitting the cover, make sure that the cables are correctly positioned in the pulley (B).
Place the covers (5) and (6) in the reference hole of the handlebar.
Fix covers (5) and (6) by tightening the screws (7) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
 
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever
The clutch lever (1) is fitted with a span adjuster (2) which serves to alter the distance of the lever from the handlebar.
The lever distance can be adjusted through 10 clicks of the dial (2). Turn clockwise to increase lever distance. Turn the adjuster counter clockwise to decrease lever distance.
When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the drive wheel is disengaged. Correct use of the clutch lever is very important in all riding situations, especially when moving off.
The position of the front brake lever (3) can be adjusted in the same way.
Warning
Any adjustment of clutch and brake levers must only be carried out when motorcycle is stationary.
Adjusting the position of the gear change and rear brake pedals
The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footrests can be adjusted to suit the preferred riding po­sition.
To modify the gear change pedal position act in the following mode:
Use an open ended spanner to hold the rod (1) on flat (A) and slacken off the lock nut (2).
Turn the screw (4) to detach the rod (3) from the gear change lever.
Turn the rod (3) to move the gear change pedal to the position.
Use the screw (4) to fix the gearbox lever to the rod (3), by tightening it to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the lock nut (2) against the rod (1).
To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.
Loosen the lock nut (5).
Turn the pedal travel adjustment screw (6) until the pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten the lock nut (5) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Verify, by acting manually on the pedal, that there is a clearance of about 1.5 ÷2 mm before starting the braking operation.
If not, check to modify the length of the cylinder push-rod in the following mode.
Slacken off the lock nut (7) on the pushrod.
Screw the rod into the clevis (8) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten the lock nut (7) to a specified torque of 2.5 ±10 (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and check again the clearance.
Adjusting the front fork (MTS 1200 ABS)
The front fork used on this motorcycle has rebound, compression and spring preload adjustment.
The settings are adjusted by way of external adjuster screws:
1) rebound damping;
2) inner spring preload;
3) compression damping.
 
Park the motorcycle in a stable position on its side stand.
Turn the adjuster (1) on fork leg top with a flat screwdriver to adjust rebound damping.
Turn the adjuster (3) on the bottom of each fork leg with a flat-blade screwdriver to adjust the compression damping setting.
As you turn the adjusters (1) and (3), you will hear them click. Each click corresponds to different damping setting.
The stiffest damping setting is obtained with the adjuster turned fully clockwise to the “0” position. Start with this position and turn anticlockwise. Count the clicks, which correspond to position 1, 2 and so forth.
Turn the hexagonal headed adjuster screw (2) to adjust the preload of the internal spring in each stanchion. Each full clockwise turn corresponds to 1 mm of preload. Maximum adjustment possible is 15 mm.
STANDARD factory setting is as follows:
Compression: 1 turn and a half;
Rebound: 2 turns.
Preload spring (A): 15 mm
Important
Adjust both fork legs to same settings.
 
Rear shock absorber adjustment (MTS 1200 ABS)
The shock absorber has external adjusters that enable you to adjust the suspension to suit the load on the motorcycle.
The adjuster (1) on the shock absorber expansion reservoir controls compression damping.
To access the adjuster (1) remove the cover (4) by loosening the screws (5).
The adjuster (2), located on the left-hand side at the point at which the shock absorber is fixed to the swingarm, controls rebound damping.
Turn the adjusters (1) and (2) clockwise to stiffen the damping or anticlockwise to soften it.
The adjusting knob (3) on the left side of vehicle lets you set shock absorber spring preload; see indications printed on knob.
The STANDARD setting is obtained when the knob is in the minimum position (LOW).
STANDARD length of preloaded spring on shock absorber: 162±1.5 mm.
 
STANDARD setting:
from the fully closed position (turned fully clockwise), unscrew:
register (1) of 1.5 clicks;
register (2) of 9 clicks.
Spring preload: 18 mm (Max.18 mm - Min.25 mm)
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with high-pressure gas and can cause injuries if inexpertly dismantled.
Important
If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting the rear shock absorber spring preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at all times. It may also be necessary to adjust the rebound damping accordingly.
Adjusting the rear ride set-up
Motorcycle track alignment as set at the factory is the result of tests carried out under different riding conditions by DUCATI test riders. Modifying factory setting is a very delicate operation, which may lead to serious damages if carried out by unskilled people. Since this motorcycle is often used in competitions, DUCATI saw it fit to equip it with special mechanisms to modify rear sus­pension and steering head geometry to suit all kinds of track conditions.
 
The rider can set four different set-up configurations on the instrument panel:
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For each of these settings, four riding modes (SPORT, TOURING, URBAN and ENDURO) can be selected and within each of these, the initial settings for traction control (DTC), engine power and suspension dampening control can be modified.
For the setup variation follow what reported in the Sect. 6 - 5 “Riding Mode” function (Riding Mode change)”.
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