14 -
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
 Spare parts catalogue
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be found in the exploded view diagram.
Inspecting the final drive
To check the wear of the final drive, visually check the pinion (14) and sprocket (18). If the teeth are found to worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the sprocket must be renewed.
To check the amount of wear on the chain (8), keep the chain taut and measure 16 links.
If the length (L) is greater than 256.5 mm, the chain should be replaced.
Important
The sprocket (18), engine pinion (14) and chain (8) must all be replaced together as a set.
Removing of the front sprocket
Undo the screws (11) and remove the chain cover (10).
Loosen the chain (Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension).
Remove the chain with the tool code 88713.1344.
The tool is composed of a holder (A), punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Fit a punch (B) into the body (C) and manually unscrew the screw until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (A) and link into the body (C).
Manually turn the screw (F) on body (C) so that the punch (B) locates against the pin, taking care that they are aligned with each other.
Fit hex wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and wrench (E) onto the bolt.
Turn the bolt (F) clockwise to push out the pin.
Remove the chain.
Engage a low gear and unscrew the nut (12).
Remove the nut (12) and the safety washer (13) on the pinion.
Remove the engine pinion (14) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Remove the spacer (15) with the O-ring (16) and the washer (17) from the secondary shaft.
Important
The O-ring (16) must be renewed on reassembly.
Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the ring (17) (Sect. 9 -  9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves).
Grease the O-ring (16) and install it on the front sprocket spacer (15).
Fit the spacer, from the O-ring side, on the secondary shaft and drive it fully home against the inner ring of the bearing.
Before refitting the front sprocket, check that the spacer (15) is installed on the gearbox secondary shaft.
Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Fit the engine pinion (14) on the gearbox secondary shaft by orienting it as indicated. Install the safety washer (13).
Tighten the nut (12) to the torque of 186 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Bend the washer (13).
Fit the chain and close it using the tool with code 88713.1344 that was used to open the chain.
The tool is composed of a holder (A), punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and link plate holder (F). Connect the two halves of the chain with the external link and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
 
Fit the holder (A) onto the external link.
Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and the plate holder (F).
Fit the body (C) onto the holder (A) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the plate holder (F) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt (G) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (F).
Remove the holder (A) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (G) until the punch (B) locates against the pin, taking care that they are aligned with each other.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (B) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete reassembly, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.
 
Adjust the chain tension (Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (11).
Fit the sprocket cover (10) tightening the screws (11) to the torque of 6 Nm± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Replacing of the rear sprocket
Lock the wheel axle rotation.
Remove the clip (1).
Loosen the locking nut (2) with a socket wrench.
Fully unscrew the nut (2) and remove the washer (3) and the flange (5) with the sprocket (18).
Collect the spacer (9).
Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (5) with the cush drive damper (6) off the sprocket (18).
Refitting the rear sprocket
Check the cush drive bushes (6) condition and, if necessary, replace them by removing them from the flange.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Apply recommended grease on the rear sprocket flange (5) external diameter.
Place the rear sprocket flange (5) on sprocket (18) by inserting it on cush drive damper pins (6).
Apply prescribed threadlocker on the nut threads (4).
Start the nuts on the cush drive damper pins (6) threaded side.
Tighten the nuts (4) to a torque of 44 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), following a cross-pattern sequence.
 
Check for wear following the instructions given at the beginning of this section.
To refit the nut (2) follow the specifications for the wheel fixing nut, in Sect. 7 - 2, Refitting the rear wheel.
 
 
Washing the chain
Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin (kerosene).
Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Lubricating the chain
O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes. However, these chains need lubricating at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O-rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside and outside (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
 
 
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