| Motorrad Long Term Test|
Boy! They should look at mine at 74,000km!!
|The BAD stuff !! List of Warranty issues with my 2010 bike||Feb 2015|
|The Great TKC80 Experiment draws to a close||Feb 2015|
|Manuals data sheets and random Tech Info|
|Wiring Diag. for MTS1200S ABS|
|Photos for Ducati.MS uploads|
|Virtual Dash (needs Flash player)|
|Known Issues with the bike||Feb 2015|
|DP CF tail pictures|
|* TUNEBOY SW Updates * (Jan 2014)|
|* TUNEBOY Electronic Cruise Control *|
|* Cruise Control Operation *|
|* Cruise Control Nudge Buttons *|
|* TUNEBOY QuickShifter *|
|* TUNEBOY Multiple Trim-Map Option|
|TUNEBOY Tuning Hints|
|MultiTool and MultiTool Lite the Android App||Feb 2015|
|MultiTool 'Android App' manual (on-line)||Feb 2015|
|MultiTool decaf the Windows App (comming soon)||Feb 2015|
|List of current FARKLES|
|MultiTool 'Android App' manual (on-line)|
|MultiTool 'Android App' manual (PDF)|
|TuneBoy V4 documentation|
|EXVL spring (MIVV)aka "MIVV's springy thingy".|
|Rubber Strips aka "Tampone Elastico" This is where they go ...|
|Polkolbin Ride - doesn't look that hard !||Man Down.|
| Polkolbin Ride - Oh OH ||My Turn.|
|Polkolbin Ride - see what I did wrong ??||Thank goodness for crash bars!.|
Killer in Yellow !
||Wattagans Ride (walk of shame)|
|Wet mark on front header.|
my gouged timing belt cover.
Gouged timing belt cover.
See the gap? Top pulley further out than bottom.
This pulley here.
Broken! - Both stop light mounting tabs (plastic!).
Why buy a multi ? (1)|
Why buy a multi ? (2)|
Ducati and Xerox|
I want to buy a Multi|
Quad Squad returns home|
Road to Ruins (Part I)|
Road to Ruins (Part II)|
National Geographic Multi-love (Mega Factories 45 mins)|
|Issue||comment||Work Around ?|
|Fuelling||Mostly due to stringent EPA type regulations|
Generally masked over by making the mixture richer
| Some of the accepted workarounds include : |
low tech - O2 manipulators, Temp manipulators etc.
PC-V or similar addon and maps
|Bags Leaking||The 1st gen bags were noted to leak in wet weather due to the
front and rear edges not closing up hard enough, leaving a small gap.
|Fixed nicley with the addition (or retro fit) of 2 clasps on each bag (must admit mine were fine)|
|Hands Free fails (bike wont turn on)|| A number of threads on this issue. some failure modes have been :
Failed Hands Free unit, broken or disconnected antenae, (battery failed in key), iPhone interferance
and known HotSpot (RF) locations
|for failed units there is only replacement.
For instances of RF or iPhone interferance, just keep away...
If all else fails there's always the 'button' on the tank + PIN code method
|Hands Free Tank Filler wont open||
A number of reports that the tank wont open.
||Gentle downward pressure on the lid as you lift the latch might help
Wait a couple of minutes, turn the bike on and off again
Carry a 4mm Allen Key... Just in case ...
|Starter Switch (button)||
Is suspected of causing battery drain if the on/off switch is left in the down position
||the accepted workaround is to remember to leave it up when you walk away from the bike
in addition many of these were replaced as part of an upgrade/recall
|Wind noise|| All aftermarket screens claim reduced noise.
a number of riders have added 'longer' mounting hardware to move the
screen forward and more upright. This seems the most effective to date
|Some aftermarket alternative include :
palmer products screen adjuster
add on lifters to move the screen forward
other screens ... etc
|DES failures rear|| Mechanical - the whole rear shock adjusting system fails
Electronic - the DES ECU fails
In some cases firmware issues resulted in erroneus error messages
For the 'Mechanical' no work around, just replace it (the entire assembly)
(mine was the 4th my dealer had seen).
For the ECU. usually only affects on changing to/from one or two 'modes'
switching off and on again resets the 'check engine' light.
Could just be firmware
|DES failures front|| Electronic - the DES ECU fails
On my bike this proved to be a loose pin in the connector plug on the RH fork.
This loose pin just needed to be seated back down inside the plug.
In addition I have cable tied the cable to the bars so there is no flexing at the plug.
|Clutch Slave Cylinder||The piston in the clutch slave cylinder is a sloppy fit and can
jam causing either inablilty to engage the clutch, or worse still,
sporadic behviour when dis-engaing
|no work around, just replace it.|
|Head Issues|| Hmpf...
Blown front head!!. need I say more
WTF does 'porus head casting' mean anyway !?!?!?
4 of these in a small sample here on Oz alone !!!
(mine was the 2nd one my dealer had seen.
If your bike is blowing exxessive white smoke
If your bike starts real rough, backfiring and coughing, but run OK warm
If your bike is losing coolant
If your bike 'smells' like coolant
Get This Checked! (A single head costs approx $3000 Oz)
apart from the head it could also mean radiator and / or valve problems too !
|Have you seen the new Triumph Explorer comming out next year ?
|Oil Leaks||Front Cylinder||
Oil leaks from bottom right stud
Oil leaks from head gasket
Oil leaks from Oil filter seal
oil leaks from oil strainer
oil leaks from rocker cover gasket
|Front end 'clunk' from forks|| Some say it's the windscreen
Some say it's the oil cooler - check the rubber gromet to the nose cone is still inplace
Some say it's the brakes
Some say it;s the suspension - try more pre-load
Ohlins suggest it *may* be fixed by adding a small shim on each leg
|try it all...|
|poor Rear brake|| Using the rear brake requires a lot of pedal travel, and needs a firm foot to get good hold
especially on a steep hill
|There is a Technical service bulletin out on this. Your dealer *should* know about it ...
Rear Brake TSB
|Radiator failures|| Blockages and a few cases where the 'divider' forcing the
water through the cooling fins was missing, causing the water to simply circulate (drop?)
straight through without cooling
some early reports of 'swarf' blockages inside the engine castings too ...
Some indication the HAWK brakets might cause cracking
Mine simply failed suddenly and in a gush of coolant on the driveway at Frasers
|Don't use the HAWK mounts, contact your vendor for the redesigned replacements or use TEchMounts|
|Fuel tank swelling||Countries using high proportions of Ethanol in their fuel
seem to be at risk of the dreaded fuel tank swelling issue
|Is this only a US thing ?
some have tried coating the inside of the tank with some sort of resin
(not sure how that stops the swelling)
Looks like the Class Action Lawsuit in the US, has provided a (5year?) replacement offer ?
|panel nuts in fueltank panels spinning||Makes it decidedly difficult, to take the tank panels off||gently heating the plastic and resetting the nut in place.
(assumes you can get it all apart first ...)
|Right hand footpeg position||Makes you need to 'twist' the front of your foot inwards to use the brake, as your heel
is pushed out to avoid the exhaust. Some, (including myself), have indicated that this
can be 'uncomfortable' if you have a crook or 'older model' knee.
|maybe try aftermarket foot pegs with a lower setting ?
several others available now ranging in price from SW Motech at about $120 through
to Ducati Performance at around $900.
|Heated Hand Grip rubber wearing out quickly||Heated grips reportedly wear out pretty quickly
As they're about $300 to replace, this sux !
|Don't hold the grips so tight. Always wear gloves. Swap them around to spread the wear.
cover them with cricket bat handle rubber or pussy grips.
|StopTail light Assy breaks off it's mounts||The entire weight of the stoptail light is cantelievered
off two small plastic tabs. With enough regular movement, these break off.
|Make sure the light Assy has no free play. Install a 'good sized gob' of silicone or glue
between the StopTail Assy and the fender, to take the weight of the assy.
|Timing belt pulley gouges inside of belt cover||(On my bike) a timing belt pully has gouged the inside of the timing belt cover.
||Alignment issue ?!?
Shop inspected all and says says can't find a reason for this.
|Fuel sensor in tank fails|
|Limited Extended Warranty Options (In Oz)||The Importer, NF Imports, says "NFI"
My dealer suggests Swann
Have also found links now to :
Australian Warranty Network
|Pick one and hope or just suck it and see|
|That's alotta 'known faults'||C'mon Ducati.. You gotta be shittin' us ...||Dunno 'bout you, but I can't afford an expensive
but unreliable bike
|May 2012 RADIATOR FAILED||Was lucky. Was at Frasers when it went.||Fixed quickly under warranty (but it took 2 weeks for a chain!?!)|
|July 2012 Fuel Sensor failed (twice)||Fuel guage and all associated readings FKD
ECL light on
Low fuel light on
very distracting !
|Fixed twice under warranty|
|Sept 2012 suspect Clutch Slave leaking (again)||Clutch fulid dissapearing (possibly into engine)||O-ring damaged by shop when they replaced the slave cylinder
I have replaced this unit with an Oberon.
|Sept 2012 Steering Lock switches failed||Hands free rarley detects the steering lock position||TBD|
|July 2013 Rear head failed||F!@#K F!@#$KING F!@#$%K||$2800 in labor to repair|
|Sept 2013 Fork Seals failed||RHS fork seal blown||Seems Im not alone|
|Nov 2013 Front BRAKE cable failed||Front Brake cable worn through by plastic guard.
See Johans posts and pictures.
|This should be a re-call !!
and a warning to everyone.
check your brake lines
|End 2013 - Throttle cable issue||Either damaged during assemly or shop damaged during an engine out/in||Replaced throttle cable with new and found old cable had badly worn through
the top of the radiator housing. (Explains radiator failure above)
This cable routing is a known defect and the shop told me
it was fixed as part of standard recall work. ... Obviosly someone lied !
|End 2014 - Fuel sensor failed again||These must be consumable items huh ?!?||Replaced with a 2nd unit from ebay|
|Jan 2015 Master clutch cylinder leaking at piston||rubber dust boot has disintegrated, this may have lead to
premature wear of the seal.
|Although the boot can (now) be purchased, a cylinder kit is not available
which means a whole new unit required
It might be worth noting that once the boot is off you have easy access to the internals, so reconditioning might not be impossible...
|Mar 2nd 2015 - Fuel sensor failed yet again||These must be consumable items huh ?!?||This is the 4th one to fail in my bike
W.T.F! am I doing wrong ?!?
|From new||Rear Brake not effective|
|FEB2011||DES error: Rear Suspension Unit - mechanical failure|
|MAR2011||DES error: firmware|
|MAR2011||Clutch Slave cylinder 'jamming'|
|JUN2011||DES error again|
|JUL2011||ECU dead after f/ware updates in shop - NFI to attend|
|Nov2011||Front head leaking coolant - described as porous head failure|
|MAY2012||Radiator - catastrophic failure (fortunatley right at FRASERS)|
|AUG2012||Clutch slave cylinder leaking internally - replaced with Oberon unit|
|JUL2012||Fuel sensor failed and replaced|
|AUG2012||Fuel sensor failed AGAIN and replaced|
|SEP2012||Hands Free unit - not locking - ignoring it|
|MAY2013||Dash board oil warning light glows when in neutral or indicators blinking - ignoring it|
|JUL2013||And now the Rear Head has failed.|
|Dec2013||Replaced the throttle cable broken by the shop and found
the old cable routing was wearing through the radiator housing (heading for ANOTHER radiator failure)
|DEC2013||Front Brake line worn through by plastic mudguard|
|Feb 2015||Replaced leaking clutch Master Cylinder|
as a side note: the dust boot is a replacable part Ducati part 61240391A
also available from KTM as part 61013008000
|MAR2015||Fuel sensor failed AGAIN (4th sensor in under 5 years)|
In less than two months, working by himself, Wayne from TUNEBOY has done it!
There are some conciderations regarding implimentation, depending on what sort of exhaust system you have. For a standard exhaust system (or one with O2 sensors enabled), then there is no real alternative but to stick with the 'starter button only' version. On the other hand, if you have had your O2 sensors disabled, then you can cobble together a couple of LED's and switches wired with appropriate resitors, and have the O2 sensor plugs read the switches and work the LED's.
The recommendation is to have your bike custom tuned for your exhaust, and have the O2 sensors disabled.
It's really important to realize that the CC depends on the fact that a small increase in throttle 'should' equate to a small increase in engine RMP. It was interesting to note that my bike did NOT do this with the standard map and MIV pipe. In fact there were a few 'holes' where a small increase in throttle actually caused a small DECREASE in RPM!.
The initial version used only the starter button to ENABLE and SET the 'Cruise.
This meant that if you tried accessing your heated grips, there was some possibility of 're-setting' or engaging the CC if it was already engaged or enabled.
The next version addressed firing the LED's (using the O2 sensor heater element control), to indicate ENABLED and ENGAGED states. And smoothed out the recovery after overtaking. (V1 was a bit scary until you knew what to expect and how to tame it!)
The next version implimented Nudge UP/DOWN buttons, and also allowed for SETting 'Cruise using these, (Makes it easier to use, and doesn't bring up the Heated Grips menu). Also tweaked in this version, is the manner in which the CC shuts the throttle off when you hit the brakes, making the roll-off smoother. i.e: You still get immediate shutdown if disengaged by clutch, but a proportional roll-off if disengaged by brake action.
There are a whole bunch of new enhancements comming soon.
- Ability to SET a new higher speed during acceleration (eg: overtaking and then staying at the new speed).
- Nudge up in 1kph steps but nudge down in -5kph steps
- Pause CC and coast down to a slower speed and re-set there.
- flashing the LED to confirm a button push
- possibly displaying the 'set' speed in the round window.
New CC software allows :-
- Ability to SET a new higher speed during acceleration (eg: overtaking and then staying at the new speed).
- Nudge up/down in 1kph steps
- flash the LED to confirm a button push
- flashing LED indicates YOU have accelarated beyond the CC set speed (ie overtaking).
new thoughts are :-
maybe CC should just be 'ON' all the time, and you just engage/disengage as required.
If the CC detects a 'wierd' voltage on the O2 sensor port, it will assume this is an O2 sensor (not your nudge buttons), and disable reading the buttons.
If the CC detects that you have the optional buttons, then disable reading the 'starter button' so the heated grip menu works without affecting CC. March 2013
Nudge UP button acts as SET if CC is enabled
Nudge DOWN button acts as RESUME
CC no longer just disengaes if you accelerate past 6500rpm. instead it goes to sleep untill your revs have dropped AND your speed has dropped back to normal.
The Nudge Buttons are read by the Vert Head O2 sensor input.
This means, if you want to use these optional buttons, you MUST have a custom tune that has disabled the O2 sensors.
From time to time TuneBoy will publish updates. Whilst these do get advertised on the forum, I will try and keep a list of them here as well.
Just be sure to check that the supplied update is applicable for your bike BEFORE you go and flash it !!
Link to PDF diag. of Plug Connections for Nudge Buttons and QS
This install has the latest tune files for - MTS1200 (2010 to 2012) - MTS1200 (2013) - Diavel (EU,AU,SA,NZ) - Diavel (US) - Panigale The new TuneBoyTrim program now has an option under "Tools" to clear the service indicator. It also now has a "Config Options", this allows you to enable or disable the nudge buttons (no longer different tunes), you can also set the way the O2 heater output is used. This can be used for an LED to indicate the state of Cruise or you can have the O2 heater output switch on as soon as the ignition turns on, this allows you to power anything you want from the O2 sensor plug (Radar detectors etc). Anyone with the nudge buttons can also chose to have the resume function with the nudge buttons, this will make the nudge down button act as a resume button if you had to disengage CC for slow traffic. The nudge up button will set a new cruise speed. With the nudge buttons fitted the start button is no longer used to set cruise speed. Where do I connect the Nudge Buttons ? (assuming you have the full Cruise and Tune package, you can install the Nudge Buttons). Connecting the nudge buttons is simple. On the Multistrada, the Nudge buttons connect to the VERT O2 lead (under the seat). On the Diavel they connect to the HORIZ O2 lead (sort of down and towards the front of the bike). See the link above for diagrams. (Plug Connections for Nudge Buttons and QS). Also included are the standard tune files, these can be used to return the ECU to standard. You won't need a new key to change back to the TuneBoy maps, just flash the modified map back in after your service and you are cruising again. Please read the documentation included in the install. The new Trim program will only work with the new maps, Any existing trim files can be used with the new tune files and the bike will run as it did with the old tune files. The fuel tables in the tunes are the same as the old tune files.
|3.11||Jan 2014||Code for QS and SmartPhone Apps|
OT2 1.0d update for faster flashing
more robust WiFi
|3.14||Feb 2014||Multiple Trim Files|
OT2 1.0e update
|3.16||beta||Variable QS pressure|
|4.00||May 2014||Variable QS pressure|
August 7, 2013
TuneBoy has released an Update for the 2013 MST1200 that corrects the Nudge button issue and provides a greater step in the Nudge function.
This update is for 2013 model MTS1200 only !!
Update for 2013 model MTS1200 - 7 August 2013 [PHP link]
If you have a 2013 MTS1200 with the Cruise and Tuning and the nudge buttons you can download. http://www.tuneboy.com.au/MTS1200_20...uneAndTrim.php The zip has the following. - 2 x Map files. - Trim file for 2013 MST1200 with stanard exhaust. - Flash program. - New Trim program. The tune for the 2013 MTS1200 with the following changes. 1. The increment for the nudge up has been changed to 1.5 kph (1 mph roughly). 2. The increment for down has been changed to 3 kph (2 mph) 3. This map has the option for a quick shifter (up and down), we have not tested this on a 2013 MTS1200. To have the up and down shift you need a strain gauge shifter, if you want up shift only you can use any type of shifter. 4. Included in the zip is a trim file for a 2013 MTS1200 with standard exhaust (Thanks to Todd Patterson for this trim file, Pattersons in Bunbury WA). The zip now has two tune files, it has the CruiseOnly map and the CruiseAndTune map. Both of these are now based on the latest map from Ducati (0304). The change to the nudge amount from +/- 1 kph to +1.5/-3 should make the bike react much quicker when you need to reduce speed. Slowing down is always more urgent than speeding up (As Wit pointed out). I will make these changes to the 2010-2012 MTS1200 ,Diavel and Panigale maps once I get some feedback on how it feels. I have also made some changes to the lowest throttle point that the cruise control will go to, this should help to reduce the on/off feeling when the cruise control is right on the switch point for fuel cut. The TuneBoyTrim program in the zip now has two service reset items, one for the Oil service and the other for the Desmo service. I think the 2010-2012 MTS1200 uses the Desmo service reset for both oil and desmo service light resets, the Diavel, Panigale and 2013 use the Oil service for the oil service light reset.
It's as easy as that !!
Now just start the engine and ride away on YOUR choice of trim file...
A sample use might be :
- keeping an EveryDay trim file, a Trackday Trim file and a Work In Progress Trim file etc ...
If you are stuck , then the best and most accurate source of help is found at Support@tuneboy.com.au
If you are shy to ask there directly, then you could try posting on the forum in the appropriate thread, and hopefully someone will have seen the issue and have the answer.
Don't be silly enough to think that the TuneBoy staff have infinite time to surf forums all over the world just to find your beef !
There are a few simple steps to follow when installing for the 1st time and later on in operation.
If you're stuck, and asking for help, then it's a good idea to let people know what point you got to with the installation.
A collection of tips ...
 Use the USB cable when flashing... Not only is it more reliable, it also means you can stay connected to your WiFi while you do the Generate Key thing.
 Really ... wait the 30 seconds between OFF and ON. (In fact... wait until the immobiliser starts to flash... Really !
 Use the WiFi for logging data. It is less suceptible to electrical noise from the engine.
 When you set up the Nudge Button Options, make sure you have completed the FLASH process first, including OFF/ON.
DONT just FLASH, and immediatley try and set the Nudge options. If you havn't done the OFF/ON thing, then you aint running the new code yet.
 Nudge Button settings are commands... not part of the TRIM file. The setting is saved directly in the ECU and nowhere else.
In it's basic form (without Nudge Buttons), you operate the CC using the bikes STARTER button.
Many people ask how does this work in conjunction with the heated grips ?
If you have the Heated Grips option on your bike, then be aware, pushing the starter button will bring up the heated grips menu.
Note that a single push or hold of the starter button (to Enable or SET CC) makes no difference to your grips setting. (Menu comes up, then goes away after 5 seconds)
However, trying to adjust your grips with CC ENABLED, will cause CC to SET and SET again ...
The prescribed recomendation for adjusting Heated Grips with CC ENABLED is :
You can buy a ready made plug and play unit from TuneBoy, or have a crack at making your own...
Cost, Functions, Versatility ! Looking around at what was available for aftermarket CC options, the best option I could find at the time was from Motorcycle Cruise Control in Melbourne. At that point in time the system cost was est. at about $1200 and none had yet been fitted to a Multistrada. The kit comprised entirley of it's own sensors and actuators making the install bulky and intrusive to wiring and even to Manifold. I put this into the too hard basket. The TUNEBOY solution is entirely Software, and costs about half the price. It adds the ability to use different fueling and ingition maps, create specific maps 'live' on the dyno, and even offers live logging and auto tuning. Not to mention the ability now to turn off the service indicators as well. Usage is easy, with a Windows PC. Plug in the WiFi box, do what you need to do, and remove the box, you're done! As far as your dealer is concerned, your ECU looks and acts like normal. Your service guys won't even know it's there unless you tell them. (IT's probably a good idea to be up front and tell them! Especially if you have removed your O2 sensors plugs !!). A solution like the PC-V or BAZAZ etc, costs about the same, but requires the permanant addition of a black box, certainly doesn't offer CC and possibly not the service clearing either.
I'm going to try putting the LED inside the switch, but realistically the LED could be mounted anywhere....
Photos of LED inside TrailTech Vector switch and Aux CCT board
|High Intensity 3mm LED, push fit's into the hole
vacated by removing the middle pushrod.
Note also, the middle pushbutton is removed
from the cct board and the additional wire pair added
|Restistor cct board photo|
Note: the 4 wires from the O2 sensor on the left
and 3 wires to the TrailTech Vector switch on the right
2 additional wires for the optional LED mounted inside the switch block.
|[WMV VIDEO] This is what the middle looks like|
with a high intensity white LED installed under it.
(I've not tested this in the real world yet) ....
|OK Its mounted and ready !|
Actually mouning the switch was a little more difficult that expected due to the way both the master clutch cyl and the LH switchcluster are 'pinned' in place on the bars.
I ended up cutting the plastic 'nipple' off, from the inside of the LH switch cluster to allow me to slide it the 1mm I needed, to get the Trailtech to sit flush against the bars.
- Electrical connection for the Multistrada 1200 is via the front cylinder O2 connector.
- Requirements are that you have the latest Tuneboy ECU flash and are using Tune or Cruise and Tune package.
A good tip from Wayne, regarding usage of the LC1 !
Here is a little info on the LC-1. 1. If you get funny values you should connect the serial cable and start the LM-Programmer. Check that the fuel type is set to 14.7 Gasoline. Sometimes this value changes to some stupid number. I cannot get an answer from Innovate to explain why. 2. If you are connecting the LC-1 to the WB-01 the LC-1 must be powered on before the WB-01, if not the WB-01 will not see the LC-1. The microcode in the WB-01 only looks for the LC-1 on power up, if it does not see the LC-1 it never looks again. Now that I have the source code for the WB-01 I will add a command to make the WB-01 try again from time to time, this will solve that problem. 3. The message on the bottom of the TuneBoyTrim screen only applies if the LC-1 is connected to the WB-01. If the LC-1 is just connected to the O2 sensor the TuneBoyTrim program is simply seeing the 0-5v value as it is read from the O2 sensor input. 4. It is important that the 0-5v output on the LC-1 is set correctly. If you have the 0-5v set to the Innovate default values then the drop down box in the TuneBoyTrim target screen should be set to "Innovate LC-1". If you have the 0-5v of the LC-1 set to 10/1 to 20/1 then the drop down should be set to "Generic 0-5v". I always check the calibration of the LC-1 with the LM-Programmer before I use the LC-1, it saves lots of head scratching.
Currently the MultiTool is under Beta test and is available to Beta Testers,
directly from the Google Play-Store.
On-Line help, (the manual), for the MultiTool can be found here.
To become a Beta Tester, find the MultiTool Google Group, (yes .. in Google Groups).. and request to become a member.
I try to check the pending requests every couple of weeks....
Beta Testers can download the latest pre-release directly from the Play Store
Availability is as above...
Now with added "Cruise Control","QuickShift" and "ShiftLight" from TuneBoy RED 2010 S Touring + DP Top box + HFF + Alarm 11-Aug-2010 ----------------------------------------------------------------- Current Issues - Steering lock sensor switches playing up ----------------------------------------------------------------- Latest Farkels - Custom Tuned Maps - Electronic Cruise Control ----------------------------------------------------------------- MODIFICATIONS and FARKLES DP CF tail tidy - (www.proitalia.com) RadGuards - (radiator + oil cooler) (www.radguard.com.au) SW Motech header guard - (www.motorradgarage.com.au) SW Motech crash bars - (www.motorradgarage.com.au) SW Motech Hawk radiator light mounts - (removed due to recall) SW Motech Hawk fairing mounts - (installed after all ... looks OK) sheepskin seatcover - ( www.goodwool.com ) Givi touring screen - (found on ebay) mivv decat and suono slipon (http://www.pjsparts.com/) Denali D2's - ( www.twistedthrottle.com ) SupaBrake brake flasher. ( www.vizi-tec.com ) FatDucs O2 manipulators. ( www.performanceboulevard.com) Headlight protectors ( www.amhp.com.au ) Touratech Handguards ( www.touratech.com.au ) CP-Wings (handmade in Oz! Thankyou Captain Plummet) Navihalter GPS mount (from the German website) Navman EZ45 GPS Powersports Tapp Lite USB Power Outlet Red LED lighting friggin' everywhere ! powdercoated bellypans and header guard Ultimate Accesories, Galaxy SII case and power supply Custom LED taillight with intergrated indicators as hazzard flasher TuneBoy Cruise Control and Tuning package (FatDucs removed) (Removed all the red LED lighting) TuneBoy QuickShifter TuneBoy Shift Light TKC 80 tyres ----------------------------------------------------------------- WARRANTY ISSUES / REPAIRS (RAH) Tail light broken off mounting (Oct 2010) (wrnty) DES rear shock Replaced. (Mar 2011) (wrnty) CLUTCH SLAVE replaced (Mar 2011) (wrnty) Front Head Replaced (Jan 2012) (RAH) indicator failed in CF tail (Mar 2012) (wrnty) Radiator Replaced (May 2012) (FFM) chain sprockets and rear disk (Jun 2012) (wrnty) Fuel Level Sensor replaced (twice) (2013) (wrnty) Rear Head Replaced (Aug 2013) (FTB) Replaced both fork seals (Oct 2013) (oow!) Front Brake line worn through by mudguard (Sept 2013) (RAH) broken airbox replaced ..don't ask! (Dec 2013) (RAH) Throttle cable guide broken (Dec 2013) (nr) Steering Lock often doesn't! (Feb2015 fixed itself ?!?) (RAH) Fuel Level Sensor replaced again (Nov 2014) (RAH) Broken vibration damper under sump (Dec 2014) (nr) Other indicator in CF tail failed (Jan 2015) (RAH) Clutch MASTER cylinder leaking at piston (Feb 2015) (FNM) chain sprockets and rear disk (Feb 2015) (*nr) Fkng Fuel Sensor (again) (Mar 2nd 2015) *wrnty = repaired under warranty *oow! = out of warranty *nr = not repaired *FTB = fixed by Tuneboy *FFM = Fixed by Frasers *FNM = Fixed by Northside *RAH = Repaired/Replaced at home ------------------------------------------------------------------
|Front Bore image 1|
|Front Bore image 2|
|Rear Bore image 1|
|Rear Bore image 2|
|Front Bore video|
|Rear Bore video|
|Rear Piston moving up down video|
Something heavy duty'er...
The TKC80's were calling, and as many have asked, but no one has really responded, I decided to try them myself.
Having worn out two rears now, and with a long road trip up coming, (needing new rubber), I will draw this experiment to a close and re-shoe with road rubber. After nearly 6000km, I feel I can share my views on the TCK80 on the Multi.
Fitment: Yes they fit. Although the first rear one refused to seal the bead, and eventually the shop resorted to using a tube. While this worked OK, I always felt somewhat vulnerable in terms of a roadside repair if punctured. The second rear beaded up nicely tubless'ly! I think if we had removed the first tire after a day or two and re-fitted it, it would also have sealed properly.
Road Grip: Yikes ! This took some time to get used to. Initially they did not feel like they would grip. Coupled with the somewhat flattened profile of the rear tire making turn-in kind of... nothing - then everything, this was a bit of a wake up! After some initial mileage though, the grip does improve, (as does rider confidence levels).
Wet Grip: Hmm... not confidant there is much of this going on down there .... Lucky I ride slowly !
Off-Road Grip: Yeah! This is what they were meant to do ! The first rear tire did not get much off-road use but a couple of days towards the end of it's life made me feel these would be a good idea if a long off-road journey was planned.
No issues on the road. (Maybe the ABS kicks in a bit more, but that said, it because the rear slides a bit more).
Turned off when off-road anyway ....
Wear: Ouch!.. My first rear TKC80 lasted only about 3000km. This was mostly gentle road riding, with just a few days off-road. The second faired much worse. I was more attuned to how they feel this time and the road punishment went up a notch or two.
I didn't quite make it to 3000km this time.
The front tyre is still looking good after nearly 6000km! (Probably has another 2000km or so in it!)
Looks: KILLER !!! (They become a huge talking point). Everyone wants to come over and have a look !
Cost: A little less expensive than the 'Scorps, but not enough to make it a practical decision, unless planning long off-road adventures. (But if you have a couple of thousand Kays of road to get there ?!?!)