Having been lucky enough not to be picked in the jury for a Murder trial this morning I'm back at work. So I thought spend some productive time telling you about the climb Bindi and I did last night.
Bindi and I had hatched a plan that we were do a big climb in the blueys on Sunday - Sweet Dreams (177m 14) at Sublime point.
After controlling our urges to dance to Deep Purple at Tove's on Saturday night Bindi & I arose at about 6:00am for a 6:30 departure to the mountains.
The notes in the guidebook that tell you how to get to sublime point seemed unnecessarily complicated - follow the signs to the fairmont resort and then sublime point is the easiest. We arrived at abvout 8:00am.
Onto the notes on how to get how to the climbs. They offer some guidance but are wrong in a few parts ie you go past the picnic shelter to the bridge. Just before the fence on the bridge drop down left to just beneath the bridge then head down left (not right as the notes suggest). A track then descends about a third of the way around the rocky pinnacle that is the lookout (not directly below the lookout as the notes say). From there it was steep slippery, sometimes hairy scrambling to the base of the cliffs. At one point you drop through a hole in the cliffs. Needless to say we took it slowly. From there you head right around the cliff edge for about 10 minutes to the terror traverse. It's a very narrow shale ledge with mega exposure below, some carved hand holds to make it easy and a dodgy wire cable to clip into to make it feel safe. We anchored, clipped the wire and belayed each other across which considering the crusty single bolt at the other side of the wire cable is advisable.
From there it was only a short distance to the base of the climb. We were the first ones there with two guys hot on our tails. the first pitch is a short wall onto a very trad chimney come vertical bush bash. There are two bolts for the tricky bits. Needless to say i quickly dispatched it. The next pitch starts getting interesting. A corner to the top of a block. Bindi led it in fine style to a suitably outrageous belay position - I lovvvvveeee exposure! From here the climb traverses and traverses right across an easy well protected wall (bolts and some natural) to another cool (read exposed) belay stance. Apart from some head scratching as to where the %#$#@$@ did the climb go there was no problems here. from here The climb goes up to the base of a corner.
Bindi led off confidently. At one point it bridges a chimney (with two hundred plus metres of air beneath you - just awesome! See the current issue of Rock for someone in the same position). Bindi did look down but continued confidently (or was it shit scared) to the roomy belay at the base of a corner. I thoroughly enjoyed the exposure on second. No pitch at this stage was any harder than grade 12 - so we were wondering where the crux was?
From where we were there is a choice of either a 17 that heads off left or the gully (14????). The gully was our choice. My lead. It turned out to be a pleasant corner with some dubious pro, heaps of yummy exposure and a pulse quickening traverse at the end to another roomy belay spot. The pitch was about 13-14 - probably the crux
The last pitch is an easy chossy overhang to the scrub above which was quickly finished by yours truly. The adventure wasn't over yet - where the f... were we? We bush bashed through some ugly scrub to a feint track and then short cliff line. After some bashing we found a way through the cliff that may have involved the hardest climbing of the day! From here it was 30 metres of shitty scrub to a good track and the short walk back to the car. we arrived back at 12:40 (heaps earlier than we expected).
Lunch was at some train cafe in Wentworth Falls - lousy service and just OK food - should have gone to the wattle for a grumble! We were home by 3:00pm for a well earned snooze!
Throughts on the climb - awesome!, there's bucket loads of exposure,
its easy, not popular (currently) and its varied climbing. Do it basically!
You can rap down the route if you can find it from the top (doubtful) and
if you actually like free 50 metre abseils into space otherwise the walk
in isn't too horrendous. As for pro it is all either adequately or well
protected. You need at least 10 bolt plates, a reasonable selection of
cams, some slings for small trees and a few nuts.